Raccoon Facts and
Information
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The Basics Seasonal Activity Common Diseases Injured/Orphaned Raccoons Problem Raccoons Pet Raccoons Contact |
The basics
 Raccoons
are native to North and South America, ranging as far south as northern
Argentina and as far north as southern Canada. The northern limits of
their range have been expanding in recent years due to increased agricultural
activity in Canada. Raccoons have been introduced in Europe and Asia as
well.Within their range, raccoons inhabit the lower elevations, avoiding the particularly harsh winter conditions of the high mountains. There are six species of raccoons within the entire range and this info page will focus on the Common Raccoon which inhabits the United States and Canada. The name 'raccoon' comes from the Algonquin word 'arakun' which means "one who scratches with his hands". When raccoons were first identified as a species they were given the name Ursus lotor or "washer bear". After much debate in the scientific community their name was changed to Procyon lotor which translates as "washer dog". An average specimen of the Common Raccoon is about 32 inches long including the tail and weighs 11 to 18 pounds. In the northern part of their range raccoons may weigh as much as 33 pounds. The largest specimen ever recorded was over 60 pounds! The life span of wild raccoons is not known but is estimated at seven years; in captivity they may live twice as long. Raccoons are omnivores and their diet includes frogs, crayfish, fish, birds, eggs, fruits, nuts, grains, small mammals and insects. Although raccoons are primarily active after nightfall, they have been known to have periods of activity during the day as well, particularly in coastal areas or areas with little human presence. Raccoons prefer to make their dens in hollows in standing trees but have also been known to use underground burrows. Their adaptability to the loss of habitat brought on by human development has led them to use abandoned buildings and vehicles as denning sites as well. Top Seasonal activity Raccoons mate in mid-winter and kits (sometimes called "cubs") are born in early spring after a gestation period of 63 days. During the first weeks of their lives the young stay in the den with their mother. At about eight weeks of age young raccoons begin to accompany their mother on her foraging excursions and she teaches them how and where to find food, climb trees and avoid danger. Summer is a time of great activity for raccoons with the kits playing, getting into mischief and discovering their world. Many sources of forage are at their most abundant in the summer. Dispersal of the kits usually begins in the fall. Kits in northern areas may stay with their mothers until the next litter is born, while kits in southern areas normally disperse after three to six months. Raccoons feed heavily in the fall months, putting on the extra insulating weight that enables them to survive the coming cold weather and scarcity of forage. Raccoons do not hibernate in winter though they remain in their dens more, only coming out to forage for an hour or so each day. During spells of bitter cold or extremely harsh conditions, raccoons do not venture out of the den at all, burning calories from the extra weight they put on in the fall until the weather becomes more agreeable. Top Diseases common to raccoons The two illnesses most commonly associated with raccoons are distemper and rabies. Rabies, unfortunately, occurs in the eastern U.S., having spread as far west as eastern Missouri. Rabid raccoons are probably not as common as the media reports would have us believe. Distemper occurs throughout the entire range and is highly contagious. Both are fatal. Symptoms of both diseases are similar and include difficulty walking, apparent confusion, and stoicism. Raccoons are not technically nocturnal but if you see one during the day, especially in or near a populated area, there may be cause for concern. Do not attempt to make a diagnosis yourself. Call a wildlife rehab professional if you suspect rabies or distemper. Wildlife rehab centers are listed in the yellow pages under 'Animal Rescue Services'. Do NOT call animal control. Top If you see an injured or orphaned raccoon Proceed with caution. If possible, have someone call a wildlife rehab facility while you keep an eye on the animal from a distance. Do not try to pick up the raccoon unless you enjoy being bitten. If the injury does not appear to be life-threatening it's best to leave the animal alone. If the injury is serious you may need to contain the animal until it can be transported to a wildlife rehab. Always consult a professional before taking any action. Do not attempt to feed an injured raccoon, especially a young one, as the wrong kind of food may be harmful or even fatal. If you believe the raccoon to be orphaned, be aware that orphans in nature are rare and the mother is probably close by and waiting for you to leave. Again, try to watch the raccoon from a distance. If you are certain the raccoon is orphaned, i.e. the mother doesn't arrive after several hours, you may wish to attempt a rescue but please consult a professional first. Again, do NOT call animal control. To locate a rehabber online, try this site: Wildlife Rehabilitation Information Directory Top Dealing with problem raccoons If raccoons are coming to your home and causing problems there are a number of ways of dealing with them without harming them. First, try to determine what has attracted them to your home. A raccoon's primary activity is searching for food and water and if you have inadvertently made these available, the problem may be solved by simply restricting access to them. Do not leave pet food and water dishes outside overnight and keep trashcans tightly covered (very tightly), or, better still, keep them in the garage. If raccoons are digging up your lawn or raiding your garden, an application or two of predator urine, available at lawn and garden centers, may do the trick. Also try keeping problem areas brightly lit at night as raccoons prefer to do their mischief under cover of darkness whenever possible. Low-voltage electric fences work well for keeping raccoons out of the vegetable garden and will help to deter rabbits and squirrels as well. If a raccoon has entered or taken up residence in some part of your home, the remedy is fairly simple. Raccoons forage in the evening so make sure there is no access to food or water in the part of the house the raccoon has occupied and simply wait for the animal to go out foraging. When the raccoon has gone, seal the entry point, preferably with galvanized sheet metal or hardware cloth, to discourage attempts at re-entry. An application of predator urine or cayenne pepper around the entrance will also help to keep the raccoon from returning. Be absolutely certain the raccoon has gone before you seal the entry point or he/she will do untold amounts of damage trying to escape. If the place the raccoon has occupied cannot be sealed, i.e. under a porch or deck, try placing mesh bags filled with moth balls or ammonia-soaked rags in the area. If the raccoon in question is a mother with kits less than eight weeks old she will probably leave the kits behind when she goes out so other measures are necessary. The absolute best approach is to allow the mother to raise her kits until they are able to fend for themselves. When they are ready, they will leave of their own accord. If this is not acceptable to you, proceed as follows: Raccoons like their dens dark and quiet so the best way to get the mother to take her kits to a new den is to make the occupied area bright and noisy. Try to get some bright light into the area and use an inexpensive AM radio to provide the noise. Don't be afraid to make your presence known to the raccoons albeit from a distance; this may also help to encourage the mother to move her young. Be patient when using this method as it may take several days before the mother decides to move along. Seal the entry point as directed above and again, be absolutely certain everyone has gone before doing so. Top Raccoons as pets Some young raccoons, especially orphans, are responsive to human contact and it is tempting to try to make one into a pet. This is rarely a good idea. Young raccoons are adorable and their antics amusing but they have very specialized needs and their curiosity and stubbornness generally preclude making pets of them. Raccoons do not recognize the word 'no' and if they decide they want something you'd better not try to take it away. Your priceless collection of Hummel figurines will be destroyed on the first day, your upholstery shredded and your refrigerator emptied of it's contents on a regular basis. The biggest problem with attempting to make a raccoon into a pet comes when the raccoon gets a little older. Female raccoons reach sexual maturity at one year of age, males at two. At this point in their development or shortly thereafter, they sometimes become ill-tempered and aggressive. If they become unmanageable they must be released to the wild. Since they've lived in captivity all their lives, they cannot simply be taken out to the country and set free. They don't know how to survive in the wild and will probably suffer a slow death by starvation or, more likely, because they have no fear of humans. Wildlife rehabbers devote countless hours to trying to 'wild up' raccoons who have been kept as pets so that they may survive on their own. Some never become releasable. There are exceptions to every rule, and in some instances raccoons have been successfully made into pets. If you have a good reason to attempt to make a raccoon into a pet, i.e. the animal has a physical defect that would prevent it from surviving in the wild, do your homework and know what you are getting into. (The desire to have an exotic pet is NOT a good reason.) As my friend Don says, "It takes a special person to live with raccoons." To this I would add, "It takes a special raccoon to live with people." Another compelling reason not to make a raccoon into a pet is the presence in many wild raccoons of a parasite called baylisascaris procyonis, otherwise known as 'roundworms' or 'brainworms'. The Journal of the American Veterinary Association has estimated rates of infestation to be as high as 80% in some areas. This parasite is harmless to the raccoon but when transmitted to a different host, such as humans (especially children) or domestic canines, it can cause blindness, central nervous system damage and death. More info on pet raccoons here: Maskd Bandit Top Contact Unfortunately, I can no longer respond to individual questions about raccoons as I simply don't have time. If you have a question about raccoons and can't find the answer on the web, try asking in the Usenet group alt.animals.raccoons. Questions are usually answered in short order by the friendly and knowledgeable folks who frequent the group. Top |